Advertisement They’re the same two active ingredients found in virtually every acne product that’s available without a prescription.
And that means that despite the array of bottles and tubes lining store shelves, there are few options out there for attacking an unwelcome rite of adolescence — acne.
While there is science behind what causes acne, treating it is mostly a game of trial and error, said dermatologist Neera Agarwal-Antal.
“Acne’s a very complicated disease,” she said.
Can you believe it?
To learn about ways to attain clear, smooth skin, we consulted resources from the American Academy of Dermatology and three experts who work daily on the front lines battling acne: Agarwal-Antal; pharmacist Anne Musitano, supervisor of Akron Children’s Hospital’s outpatient pharmacy; and Dr. Robert Brodell, a dermatology professor at the Northeastern Ohio Universities College of Medicine and spokesman for the American Academy of Dermatology.
What causes acne?
Acne, which includes pimples and plugged pores called blackheads or whiteheads, pops up most commonly in adolescents because of changes related to growth. During puberty, oil-producing glands in the face become hyperactive, and cells around those glands shed more rapidly. When cells stick together plugging pores, a normal skin bacteria called Propionibacterium acnes, or P. acnes, multiplies rapidly in those pores. All this results in acne. Hormone changes and certain medications also can cause acne.
Is acne caused by diet?
Doctors insist acne is not caused by diet, but if you find a certain food seems to worsen your acne, lay off it.
What treatments work best?
What works best is a matter of what works best for you. Benzoyl peroxide helps unclog pores, reduce P. acnes bacteria and better control the bacteria than other types of antibiotics. Salicylic acid unclogs pores by correcting abnormal skin shedding.
What kind of face wash should I use?
Contrary to popular belief, dirt doesn’t cause acne, but you should wash your face twice a day to clean your face of excess oil and skin cells. Gentle body soaps work just as well as soaps that are marketed as face washes. Acne-fighting ingredients are most effective when applied in ointments that stay on the face rather than in face washes. If you want to use a moisturizer, look for the words “oil-free” or “noncomedogenic.”
Should I use toners or astringents?
Doctors don’t recommend them, because they can irritate the skin without doing much for treating acne, because, again, they don’t stay on the skin. Normal face washing is generally all that’s needed for face cleaning.
Should I use an ointment?
Yes. This is one thing doctors recommend. Use ointments with the level of active ingredient that works best without irritating your skin. If you have oily skin, gel ointments might help dry your skin more than creams or lotions. It takes at least one or two months for a treatment to start working, so don’t quit too soon. Use only one product with either benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid — for example, just an ointment containing one of those ingredients, not also a face wash — because using multiple acne products could be too harsh on your skin. Even if two brands use the same active ingredient, it could be helpful to try different brands, because you might react differently to different formulas or fragrances.
Are spot treatments worth trying?
They may be stronger than other ointments, but they’re generally not recommended. It’s more effective to apply ointments all over affected areas to prevent future breakouts.
What are some things people of color should know?
You can treat dark spots that result from acne with skin-lightening products available at the store or through your doctor. Benzoyl peroxide can discolor skin, so it may be better to use pore-unclogging topical ointments called retinoids, which are available by prescription.
When should I go to a dermatologist?
When your acne is a concern, and it’s not getting better after trying mild soaps and ointments containing benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid. Seek treatment to prevent scarring if your acne never clears or you start noticing pitting or craters.
What will doctors prescribe?
Doctors may prescribe variations of the types of products you may already have tried, antibiotics, oral contraceptives, topical retinoids and isotretinoin, or Accutane.
