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Published - Monday, June 11, 2007

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Wine country too snooty? Maybe beer is more your taste


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CLEVELAND — Beer usually conjures images of fraternity keggers, tailgate parties and Homer Simpson loafing at Moe’s Tavern.

But U.S. beer drinkers are becoming more sophisticated in their suds consumption, matching beer with food and experimenting with different varieties than those endlessly promoted on football Sunday TV commercials.
Some are willing to travel long distances to find them.

Although beer lacks a major destination such as Napa Valley, many beer aficionados are taking vacations that are more like extended beer runs, visiting the nation’s many craft breweries, brewpubs and beer festivals.

Nearly every major city has a brewery these days.

In Cleveland, the century-old mahogany bar at Great Lakes Brewing Co. has seen its clientele change over the years. Originally, hardworking locals bellied up — like famed crime-fighter Eliot Ness, who frequented the place decades earlier when it was called the Market Street Exchange.

The locals still show up, but on weekends the parking lot is filled with out-of-state plates from as far away as Nevada and Florida. Beer drinkers come for a taste of the brewery’s award-winning Dort-munder Gold, a crisp lager, and Edmund Fitzgerald Porter, named for the ore carrier that sank in Lake Superior in 1975 during a storm as dark as the chocolatey black brew.

If you go in and ask for a Bud Light, tour and tasting guide Chas Murray will offer you a glass of tap water.

“We have good beer, really good beer,” Murray said.

Great Lakes Brewing — www.greatlakesbrewing.com, 2516 Market Ave., (216) 771-4404 — expects to produce 50,000 barrels this year and was ranked by the Boulder, Colo.-based Brewers Association as the 26th largest craft brewery — defined as small and independent — in the country.

The brewery has a restaurant where manager Pete Gerome will help customers pair beer with food. He recommends the rich, sugary Eliot Ness Amber Lager for fried foods and any dish with tomato sauce. The citrus-toned Holy Moses White Ale contrasts well with Thai cuisine.

“The biggest thing when you’re pairing things up — if you have a bold beer, you need an equally bold dish to stand up to the flavors,” Gerome said.

Mike McAllister of Dayton traveled to Great Lakes Brewing Co. for its limited release of Lake Erie Monster Double IPA. Such limited releases are a big draw for breweries, and customers were restricted to six 22-ounce bottles, which sold for $10 each.

McAllister is a converted wine drinker who gave up on vino because he couldn’t afford the expensive varieties he enjoyed.

His beer travels have taken him to Michigan, Indiana, New York and Illinois. He returned with 19 cases of beer from his latest seven-brewery trip, which included stops at Bell’s Brewery — www.bells beer.com, 355 E. Kalamazoo, (269) 382-2332 — in Kalamazoo, Mich., and Flossmoor Station Brewery — www.flossmoorstation.com, 1035 Sterling Ave., Flossmoor, Ill., (708) 957-2739 — outside Chicago. It should be enough beer to help keep his 500-bottle beer cellar stocked.

It turns out the beer crowd isn’t all that different from the wine and cheese crowd, according to McAllister.

“A lot of the people who are beer geeks are actually bigger snobs than the wine people _ just without the money,” he said.

While visiting Cleveland, beer lovers are likely to stop at the Brew Kettle Taproom & Smokehouse — www.the brewkettle.com, 8377 Pearl Road, (440) 239-8788 — which is only a short drive from Great Lakes Brewing.

Inconspicuously located in a strip mall in suburban Strongsville, the Brew Kettle was voted by ratebeer.com as the No. 1 brew pub in the country. Visitors can brew their own beer in the fermentation room or imbibe an impressive variety of craft beers on tap, including Celis Belgian white ale, a crisp, slightly floral brew, and New Holland Dragon’s Milk, a bourbon barrel-aged ale with oak and vanilla tones.

Owner Chris McKim sees a lot of beer tourists pass through.

“We had a couple guys pull in in a station wagon doing the low ride because they had so much beer in the back,” McKim said.

“There’s some passionate people. It’s another hobby for them that isn’t too expensive.”

Beer appreciation is a transformation in progress. Beer is evolving from a working-class beverage guzzled out of a can to something that’s judged, critiqued and enjoyed with food by discriminating connoisseurs.
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