Advertisement On any given day, shoppers may choose between two or more varieties of salmon in the fresh seafood counter. And that’s not even considering the frozen and canned choices.
This is the height of the fresh salmon season, so a guide seemed in order.
Some decisions are about flavor; some about the environment; some about economics. Only you know which is most important to your family. But after reading this guide, your choices will be well-informed.
Sometimes salmon is labeled with the name of the place where it’s caught, or the river that it spawns in. Such point-of-origin labeling typically means special care is taken in fishing, which in turn means higher prices.
Latin names and nicknames below are from “The Field Guide to Seafood,” by Aliza Green (Quirk, $15.95). Some information comes from sustainabletable.org. All salmon belong to the family oncorhynchus, which comes from the Greek words for “hook nosed.”
Sockeye (Oncorhynchus nerka) or red salmon: the most highly prized variety, with deep red flesh, high in oils. Often canned, seldom seen fresh because much of the fresh catch is sold to the Japanese market. This salmon’s skin turns red during spawning season, hence one name; its name in the Salish tribe’s language means “fish of fishes.”
King (Oncorhynchus tshawytscha) or Chinook: soft, very red flesh, buttery flavor. Average market weight: 11 to 18 pounds. Ivory salmon or white-flesh kings, native to just a few rivers in Canada and southeastern Alaska, have a genetic trait that helps them process the carotene in their food, so it doesn’t collect in their flesh; flavor is said to be milder and more voluptuous than red-fleshed salmon.
Coho (Oncorhynchus kisutch) or silver salmon: an autumn spawner whose run peaks in late July and August. Averages 10 pounds with mild flavor and medium-firm flesh.
Chum (Oncorhynchus keta), dog or keta: lower-fat salmon with paler color and meaty texture. Harvested July to October, often canned. Some call this dog salmon because it develops fanglike teeth during spawning season; others say its nickname was created because it is the fish the Inuit dry to feed their sled dogs during the winter. Usually low-priced.
Pink (Oncorhynchus gorbuscha), humpback: with chum, the bargain salmons. The smallest of the Pacific salmon, its flavor and texture is akin to trout. Lower fat content means it’s easier to overcook than sockeye or king. Sometimes served whole in restaurants; popular for smoking and often canned.
All five species, when fished from Alaskan waters, are certified sustainable by the Marine Stewardship Council, an independent, nonprofit certification agency.
All, or virtually all, farm-raised salmon is Atlantic salmon; there is no commercial Atlantic salmon fishery because wild Atlantic salmon is on the brink of extinction. If it’s labeled Atlantic salmon, it was farm-raised. If you prefer wild salmon, look for the words “wild” or “Pacific” or “Alaskan” on the label.
Most “never-frozen” salmon also has been farm-raised, because it can be flown in relatively inexpensively to local markets.
Look closely at the label on fresh farm-raised salmon offerings. You may see the words “color added.” Fish farmers add carotene — not dye pellets — to their fishes’ rations to render their color similar to wild salmon’s flesh. If they didn’t, the fish in the counter would be pale gray, and not very appetizing.
Some organic farm-raised salmon gets its carotene from ground shrimp and other small crustaceans, the same sources from which wild fish get their color.
RESOURCES ON THE WEB
The Monterey Bay Aquarium’s pocket guide to seafood choices is available in regional and national forms; visit http://mbayaq.org and click on the “Take Action” tab at the top of the Web site.
The Shedd Aquarium also offers a pocket guide. Visit http://sheddaquarium.org and search for “Right Bite.”
http://Oceansalive.org also offers a printable list of wise seafood choices.
ROASTED GINGER SALMON
4 salmon fillets, skin on
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 piece (1½ inches long) ginger root, peeled, minced
3 tablespoons reduced-sodium soy sauce
½ teaspoon sea salt
1 tablespoon each, minced: parsley, green onion
Heat oven to 350 degrees F. Place the salmon in an 8-inch-square or other small baking dish; set aside. Mix together garlic, ginger and soy sauce; pour mixture over the salmon.
Bake until just cooked through, about 20 minutes. Sprinkle with sea salt, parsley and green onion.
Makes 4 servings.
Per serving: 286 calories, 40 percent of calories from fat, 12 grams fat, 2 grams saturated fat, 107 milligrams cholesterol, 2 grams carbohydrates, 39 grams protein, 781 milligrams sodium, 0.2 grams fiber
HONEY GLAZED GINGER SALMON WITH PINEAPPLE
6 salmon fillets, thawed if frozen
1/2 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground pepper
1/4 cup orange juice
2 tablespoons each: brown sugar, honey, Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 piece (1/2-inch long) ginger root, grated
1 pineapple, peeled, cored, cut into slices
Prepare a grill for medium heat. Season salmon with the salt and pepper to taste; set aside.
Mix together orange juice, brown sugar, honey, Dijon mustard, soy sauce and ginger in a small bowl; set aside.
Place pineapple on the grill; cook, turning occasionally, until softened and beginning to turn brown, about 2 minutes per side. Meanwhile, place fillets on the grill; cook, basting with sauce after 3 minutes, until just beginning to turn golden around the edges on one side, about 5 minutes. Turn; baste with sauce. Grill until cooked through, about 5 minutes. Serve fillets with pineapple.
Makes 6 servings.
Per serving: 360 calories, 31 percent of calories from fat, 12 grams fat, 2 grams saturated fat, 107 milligrams cholesterol, 22 grams carbohydrates, 40 grams protein, 541 milligrams sodium, 1 gram fiber.
