Long before cognac, there was brandy. Long before brandy, there was wine. And before that came the grapes.

And even longer before that was the Cognac region of France, where the grapes grew and the only place in the world from which cognac, the distilled spirit, comes.
Here’s what I like best about cognac, the spirit: Its flavor is romantic and warming, and with cooler weather and the holidays approaching, its delicate taste is the perfect accompaniment for a crackling fire, a furry kitty or pup in your lap, a good cigar, a great book or even to give as an elegant gift.

Then again, here’s what I like about Cognac, the region: Its appeal is romantic and warming, and for a Christmas getaway, it’s the perfect accompaniment should you happen to find yourself in a place like Paris or Provence during the holidays.

About a three-hour high-speed train ride form Paris, Cognac is a wonderfully tranquil side trip from the bustle of the City of Lights. The region has all the elements of what you would expect of the French countryside: seemingly infinite acres of vineyards, remarkably quiet beauty, and dramatic Middle Ages architecture and history.

As if that weren’t enough, Cognac’s climate is nearly perfect. The weather is neither too hot nor too cold, with the sun, wind, and occasional rain harmonizing as if scripted in an orchestra. Frost or snow sometimes blankets the region during the winter, but the chill doesn’t last.

But the extra incentive in Cognac that you won’t find anywhere else on Earth is all those great houses of cognac, the distilled spirit.

Strolling through a vineyard belonging to Hennessy cognac near the village of Juillac-le-Coq, my shoes kicked up the ancient, chalky earth that is the secret to good wine, brandy and cognac. The chalk in the soil, I learned, makes all the difference from other wines, for it retains humidity from rain, fog, and wet breezes from the nearby Atlantic. Humidity, as it turns out, is the integral ingredient for growing the best vines and fruit.

The art of cognac — which translates to “eau-de-vie” or “water of life’’ (in Cognac it’s a fair guarantee that you’ll hear ``eau-de-vie’’ more often than you’ll hear “Bonjour!’’) — is really the art of aging and blending a panacea of flavors with white grape-only wine: honey, vanilla, tea, and oranges are among them.

The cognac is then aged in oak as it slumbers to maturity before it’s exported around the world. Outside of France, the U.S. consumes the most cognac, while Singapore comes in a close second.

Then there’s Cognac, the region. Over the years I’ve managed to get to France several times, and each time I visit I tell myself that it can’t get any better, but it always manages to outdo itself. Cognac is a special surprise, as with more gardens to ramble, flowers to snuffle, vineyards to stroll, Romanesque churches to visit, museums to discover, and medieval bridges, castles, abbeys, and turrets to explore.

The region is deeply rooted on Celtic, Gallic and French history, and the village of Cognac, with a population of about 20,000, sits directly on the banks of the Charente River, a waterway described by King Henri IV as “the loveliest stream in my kingdom.’’

One of the best ways to see the town is by foot — some of the streets are marvelously cobbled — or by river barge or sailing vessel, passing through locks before going downriver past grand homes rooted in centuries of French history, spectacularly hued and perfectly manicured gardens, and several of the cognac distillers including Hennessy, Courvoisier, Meukow, Remy Martin, and Martell.

Another way to experience all that is Cognac is to taste it: there is nothing quite like cheese from France, and the thing I really, really, really like is that cheese is served as its own course. Pairing perfectly with cognac or wine, French-crafted cheeses like Camembert, brie, Comte, and bleu — there are more than 400 types made in France — are simply beyond exceptional and enough to make a grown mouse cry.

When it comes to gastronomy, naturally, there is more than cheese in this region renowned for its farm-fresh fruits and vegetables, straight-from-the-ocean seafood (cognac pairs exceptionally well with lobster, fish, prawns, and snails, a local specialty), sauce-laden beef and wild games dishes, and sumptuously rich desserts.

From small, intimate bistros to the Michelin 2-starred Restaurant Richard Coutanceau in La Rochelle, the cuisine is outstanding — cognac-infused recipes are specialties here — but most importantly and almost without exception, the real McCoy. Think butter, not margarine; pure sugar, not Splenda; bacon, not imitation pork-flavored soy.

And calories don’t count in Cognac, because you’ll just walk them all off maneuvering those cobblestone streets.

When you taste cognac, the spirit, you taste the essence of Cognac, the region. After a visit to this gorgeous place, you’ll leave raising your glass in a toast to both.

IF YOU GO:

These are a few Web sites to get you started on your journey to Cognac: Remy Martin (www.remy.com), Courvoisier (www.courvoisier.com), Meukow (www.meukowcognac.com), Hennessy (www.hennessy.com), and Martell (www.martell.com). If you want to visit a distillery to see the distillation process or the stupendous cask-filled aging warehouses, it’s best to check the Web sites first, as some companies are not open to the public year `round.

Almost all major U.S. carriers and Air France (www.airfrance.com) have direct flights into Paris. Another relatively new option is L’Avion Airlines (www.lavion.com), a business class-only airline with low rates. For the best experience, drive or take the TGV (www.tgv.com) to Cognac. Driving is on the right-hand side of the road, and car rentals are readily available (about a five-hour drive from Paris).

Consider staying at the Chateau de L’Yeuse (www.yeuse.fr), a charming and historic hotel — with an English-speaking staff, by the way — on the banks of the Charente River.

To learn more about cognac, the spirit, visit www.cognac.fr, and to learn more about the Cognac region, visit www.tourism-cognac.com.

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