LONDON — If you want the skinny on a city, ask a police officer.

In this case, it’s two former officers — brothers, one of them a part-time Texan — whose small private touring company serves London and southern and eastern England.
The siblings, Anthony “Tony” Egerton and Gary Egerton, intimately know London, its history and its special places.

“We were policemen, and policemen wander around,” Gary says, explaining how they amassed their city savvy.

“Wandering” with them in the sky-blue cab they use in the city or the minivan they use on excursions to the countryside lets travelers get both the big picture and details that give it personal focus.

Travelers can set the itinerary according to their own interests and time.

“Probably the best thing about our tours is that they are personalized and tailored to the requirements of the customer,” Tony says.

The Egertons and I met in two outings for a mere three hours of exploring central London, and I came away full of cod, enriched by insider tips and with a better handle on handling London.

We saw the flower-decked but minuscule house, barely wider than a Murphy bed at its wider end, that occupies a former stable on Ennismore Gardens Mews. Gary calls it “the smallest house in London,” and it looks as if it could be. We stopped for a photo at Winston Churchill’s London home at 28 Hyde Park SW, and saluted his strength that galvanized a nation.

We passed royal homes, including Clarence House (where Charles and Camilla live) and the “senior palace,” St. James’s, the official residence of the queen. (She calls Buckingham Palace “the shop,” Gary says.)

The Egertons showed me the no-crowd, close-up version of the changing of the guard at Buckingham Palace is at Wellington Barracks, where the soldiers assemble about 11 a.m. before marching out to the palace, accompanied by a brass band.

We crossed to the south side of Lambeth Bridge for a grand view of Parliament and Big Ben.

We entered Westminster Abbey through the speedier, group door (“We pride ourselves that our clients won’t stand in a line,” Gary says) and later encountered Margaret Thatcher’s natty driver outside. We sent our respects to the durable politician.

I learned an important fact for travelers: Methodist Central Hall across from the abbey has a public toilet downstairs by Wesley’s Cafe.

I was introduced to Lock & Co. Hatters and saw the green-painted cube at the foot of Hungerford Bridge that’s a cabdrivers-only eatery. The public might get a bite on weekdays at a side window, I’m told, but we were bound for another cabbie fave: Masters Super Fish, four blocks south of Waterloo Station.

The cod fillets at Super Fish were as big as a shoe, golden on the outside, flaky and moist inside. The fries were chunky and fresh, and a side of mushy peas was creamy and sweet.

Woven through all of our cruising was the brothers’ briefing: On the layout of London (two cities — old Roman and Westminster — and 32 boroughs). History from the great fire to the great plague. Tidbits such as kids’ favorite museum (Science) and grownups’ (Victoria and Albert).

Our conversation was lively, spiced with humor. The city was humanized.

Before the elder brother, Tony, founded Diplomatic Guide Services in 1996, he was with the London Metropolitan Police, and for the last 14 years before he retired he served in the Royalty and Diplomatic Protection Group at the Houses of Parliament, providing security for members of the royal family, heads of state and government officials.

He’s a licensed London Tourist Board driver-guide and a licensed London cabdriver. The city’s web of streets is so complex that the latter certification may take three to five years of study.

Gary, who retired in 2002, served in the Essex Police Department’s Special Branch, a group responsible for covert anti-terrorist duties that works with the security services MI5 and MI6.

In his work, he provided close protection to royals, Mrs. Thatcher and the current king of Jordan when he was a prince studying at Cambridge University.

Gary is a registered Blue Badge guide, one of a corps of experts on the city.

Because of the Egertons’ security experience and their use of other former police officers when additional guides are needed, the brothers’ company often is called by the U.S. Embassy to guide visiting notables.

The brothers enjoy Americans (Tony lives part of each year in the Dallas area), and normally greet U.S. clients, “Good morning, Colonials.”

“In the five years I’ve been doing this,” Gary says, “I have never, ever met a rude American.”

I was dropped off near St. Paul’s Cathedral to save me a trip on the Tube, and as I watched the baby-blue taxi disappear into traffic, I was flooded with delight. I felt more like a Londoner than I ever have.

IF YOU GO:

GUIDE SERVICE: Diplomatic Guide Services offers private tours in London, including a Jack the Ripper walk, and to such destinations outside the city as Windsor, Hampton Court, Bath, Stratford, Cambridge and Stonehenge. Rates: about $90 per hour, $550 per day. Entry fees and snacks aren’t included. Contact: 011-44-1795-539908; www.lontour.demon.co.uk.

WHERE I STAYED: Apartment rental appears to cost more than a hotel room but can be a bargain because meals can be eaten in. I chose the subway-accessible, modern Phoenix House near Sloane Square. Grocers are nearby. Minimum stay, one week. Weekly rates: from about $2,400. Contact: 011-44-20-7259-8222; www.chevalgroup.com.

RESOURCES:

Masters Super Fish, 191 Waterloo Road; 011-44-20-7928-6924. Closed Sundays.

London tourism, www.visitlondon.com.

U.K. tourism, 1-800-462-2748; www.visitbritain.us.

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