Colombard is the Rodney Dangerfield of white wine grapes, rarely getting any respect but serving as the backbone of most California jug wine, thanks to its high acidity.

This 50/50 blend comes from France, where Colombard is used mainly for distilling into cognac in the Gascony region. The chardonnay comes from Languedoc. It is part of Mau’s Vin de Pays line, which was launched to dispel the notion that French wines are stuffy and complicated.
This wine is certainly not complicated. Rather, it was a pleasant surprise, with light refreshing flavors of citrus, apple and tropical fruits. Serve it before dinner, with a cheese tray or take on a picnic.

Sherry: “Dry and tart with citrus lime and pineapple flavors.” 3 stars

Chris: “Tart pineapple, pear and a dash of vanilla.” 3 stars

Available locally for about $7.

Coming next week: Robert Mondavi Vinetta

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